By Mark Hiroshi Willis

In a previous company I would regularly travel to one of our diamond polishing factories in Bangkok, Thailand. There we would polish the diamonds that would later be used in the exquisite diamond rings of famous luxury brands such as Tiffany and Mikimoto. One phrase that always stuck with me was “Same Same, But Different” (I even have the t-shirt). The Thai people use this phrase, which basically means that things are similar. In the diamond business, being similar just doesn’t cut it. Small differences in the 4C’s can mean huge differences in price and the overall beauty of a stone.

In Japan, the birthplace of Hearts & Arrows, the term was patented by a Mr. Kinsaku Yamashita and he uses it for his own brand. In it’s place, Japan’s largest gemological laboratory (Central Grading Laboratory or CGL) patented the term Heart & Cupid and is kind enough to allow all the other domestic laboratories to use this term as long as they follow the strict criteria for giving the Heart and Cupid stamp of approval.

So in my search to give clients and readers the most accurate information, I decided to go directly to the industry standard, CGL (located throughout Japan in Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka, Fukuoka, and Kofu).

It was then that they provided me with a Japanese copy of their Heart & Cupid criteria which can be viewed directly on their website. With my background of being Japanese/American and a Graduate Gemologist of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), I offered to do the English and technical translation (CGL Website: English and Japanese PDF Files).

After carefully studying the criteria one can clearly see there is a huge difference between real Hearts & Arrows and the fake ones being sold everywhere.

Most laboratories around the world do not have set criteria for Hearts & Arrows (even GIA), and therefore we see many dealers, shops, online diamond dealers, etc taking it upon themselves to interpret it in their own way. Some companies will even go as far as laser inscribing “H&A” on the side of the stone.

And when we look at the bottom line and how it affects price, the answer is:

A price differential of 10%, 20% and even more depending on the stones size and grade.

For such a huge difference in price and beauty, don’t you think you should have the stamp of approval from an independent laboratory with strict guidelines? Or maybe “Same Same”is good enough for you.

Key Points

• Hearts & Arrows patented by Mr. Kinsaku Yamashita in 1988

• Heart & Cupid patented by CGL in 1997.

• CGL allows the diamond industry to use the term Heart & Cupid as long as they follow the strict criteria.

• When buying a stone labeled Hearts and Arrows, be sure to buy one that has been graded by a reputable laboratory that adheres to the strict grading criteria.

• Price difference of 10%, 20%, or more!

For further information, contact us at info@diamonds.co.jp

Located in Tokyo, Japan we specialize in 1 carat and up, diamond engagement rings.

We also carry a regular line of wedding bands, eternity rings, diamond earrings, diamond necklaces, and unique diamond accessories.

Diamond Color.

By using controlled lighting and precise viewing conditions, gemologist will grade each stone for its color.

The five main categories are:

1. Colorless = D,E,F.

2. Near Colorless = G,H,I,J.

3. Faint Yellow = K,L,M.

4. Very Light Yellow = N,O,P,Q,R.

5. Light Yellow = S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z.

After the standard five categories above, we move into Z+ stones or fancy color diamonds that can be extremely rare and expensive. Pinks, reds, blues, greens, oranges, and even yellows that show extreme color can be more expensive than the prized D color. Then there are the browns (champagne, cognac, and chocolate), which are more affordable. And finally black diamonds, which are the cheapest color range available.

To the untrained eye the color distinctions are so subtle and practically invisible. But these slight differences can make a very big difference in diamond quality and price.

Key Points

• In Japan, when we look at the bridal diamond market, the typical range has always been Colorless or F up in color. Things are changing though, many famous international brands will use G and H Color stones (or even lower color stones for fashion rings, pendants or earrings).

• Unless you are a professional, you probably will not be able to tell the difference in one color grade such as a D and E color (Maybe even two grades).

• Once the stone is set, it becomes more difficult to distinguish the color grade, even for a professional. And if you take into consideration the dirt, soap and hand cream residue that accumulates on a diamond through normal wear, it is almost impossible to get an accurate grading.

• People are always comparing stones, but to the untrained eye if you have one stone by itself, it is almost impossible to tell the color grade. Remember, most people do not wear multiple engagement rings and/or sit there comparing the color of their friend’s diamond ring side by side.

For further information, contact us at: info@diamonds.co.jp

Located in Tokyo, Japan we specialize in 1 carat and up, diamond engagement rings.

We also carry a regular line of wedding bands, eternity rings, diamond earrings, diamond necklaces, and unique diamond accessories.

Diamond Clarity.

When distinguishing a stone’s clarity, professionals will use a 10X loupe to determine the grade. The natural birthmarks in a stone are inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external).

FL (Flawless): No inclusions or blemishes when a professional looks at the stone with a 10X loupe. This grade is basically for collectors who like to keep the stone in a box since it is very possible that the stone can get scratched during the setting process or through normal wear, and then the grade will drop to Internally Flawless (IF).

IF (Internally Flawless): There are no inclusions, but a blemish can be found by a professional using a 10X loupe.

VVS-1 and VVS-2 (Very, Very Slightly Included): The normal person would need a microscope to see the inclusions (and probably a very high magnification). Even then, it would be very difficult to distinguish between an actual inclusion and dust. VVS stones are extremely rare and priced accordingly.

VS-1 and VS-2 (Very Slightly Included): The normal person would have some difficulty finding the inclusions with a 10X loupe and they would probably need a professional to point them out. However, once we reach this grade, the inclusions size and/or quantity grow. Therefore, the chances of having a high VS-2 or a low or weak VS-2 also grows (a low VS-2 may easily be seen with a 10X loupe).

SI-1 and SI-2 (Slightly Included): The normal person will probably be able to see the inclusions with a 10X loupe, but the inclusions should not be visible to the naked eye. SI class is very similar to VS in that the size and number of inclusions have grown. Therefore, we face the same problem of two stones with the same exact grade, but totally different value. The only sure way of getting a nice stone is to go to a reputable jeweler that has a trained gemologist who can show you the actual inclusions.

I-1, I-2, and I-3 (Included): The inclusions begin to be visible with the naked eye and can affect the stones overall luster and strength. Here we will find a huge spread between the different ranges and this will greatly affect the price. As long as the stones are structurally strong, look for the luster in the stones.

Key Points:

• In Japan, the typical bridal diamond market starts at the VS range, however SI-1 stones have now worked their way into the mix.

• Unless you are carrying a loupe or unless you tell someone, most people will never know the clarity grade of your stone.

• The differences between the 1’s and 2’s of the above grades are usually the number of inclusions and/or their locations.

• There can sometimes be quite a range in one clarity grade, therefore dealing with a reputable and trusted source will be your only insurance on getting the best stone.

• Diamonds attract a lot of dust, dirt, body oils, etc… Therefore, your once shiny stone can easily become hazy or blurry by just touching the piece or washing your hands (soap and/or hand lotion residue can easily stay attached to the stone).

• Extra Precautions 1: Always view the diamond under various light sources.

• Extra Precautions 2: Always ask to view the diamond with a 10X loupe or microscope.

• Extra Precautions 3: Ask the sales clerk to show you where the inclusions are (if they can).

For further information, contact us at: info@diamonds.co.jp

Located in Tokyo, Japan we specialize in 1 carat and up, diamond engagement rings.

We also carry a regular line of wedding bands, eternity rings, diamond earrings, diamond necklaces, and unique diamond accessories.

Diamond Cut.

Out of all the 4C’s, the diamond’s cut is the most complex and difficult to understand. Many people will even confuse the cut with the shape of the diamond.

To clarify, the diamond’s shape is either categorized as round brilliant cut or fancy shapes such as Oval, Pear, Princess, Emerald, Radiant, Marquise, etc…

With round stones, the typical grading categories are:

Excellent

Very Good

Good

Fair

Poor

Then we have cut grades that are above Excellent and are for the true diamond connoisseur.

These are:

Hearts and Arrows or Heart and Cupid.

So why is the cut so important? Well it is the cut that gives the diamond it’s luster and shine.

A well cut stone will allow light in, then reflect and bounce back to your eyes.

A poorly cut stone will let light in, but will leak out of the bottom.

And most well cut stones will have a bigger face, whereas poorly cut stones will be deep and appear small.

Therefore, when thinking about which of the 4C’s is most important, the “Cut” should be right at the top.

For further information, contact us at: info@diamonds.co.jp

Located in Tokyo, Japan we specialize in 1 carat and up, diamond engagement rings.

We also carry a regular line of wedding bands, eternity rings, diamond earrings, diamond necklaces, and unique diamond accessories.

Diamond Carat Weight.

When a person asks, “How many carats is it?”  They typically are referring to a diamond’s size.  However, the word “carats” is actually a term used for a stones weight and is derived from the carob seed which were used in ancient times for weighing the stones.  Today, a 1 carat diamond weighs 0.2 grams.

Keypoints

• In Japan, the typical carat weight for a diamond engagement ring ranges between 0.20 cts and 0.34 cts.

• We specialize in 1 carat and up diamond engagement rings.

• Approximate millimeter sizes for well cut round diamonds are as follows:

0.25 carats = 4.1 mm.

0.50 carats = 5.2 mm.

0.75 carats = 5.9 mm.

1.00 carats = 6.5 mm.

1.25 carats = 6.9 mm.

1.50 carats = 7.4 mm.

2.00 carats = 8.2 mm.

3.00 carats = 9.3 mm.

5.00 carats = 11.0 mm.

10 carats = 17.6 mm.

For further information, contact us at: info@diamonds.co.jp

Located in Tokyo, Japan we specialize in 1 carat and up, diamond engagement rings.

We also carry a regular line of wedding bands, eternity rings, diamond earrings, diamond necklaces, and unique diamond accessories.